ᐅ Summit No. 12 Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) | Top Summits of the World

SUMMITS

SUMMIT Nº 12: KILIMANJARO (TANZANIA)

TANZANIA

KILIMANJARO

06 / 04 / 2023

ALTITUDE

5.895 m

ÒSCAR SOLSONA, JORDI GIRONA, NATÀLIA SANTAMARIA, JORDI GUASH AND ANDREU LÓPEZ

DIFFICULTY LEVEL

HIGH

CHRONICLE

I have been preparing for the ascent of Kilimanjaro for months. As the day to rise approaches, the nerves, the tension and the motivation increase… the months of February and March I considerably increased the quantity and quality of the training. The last two weekends before leaving, together with Natàlia Santamaria and Jordi Girona, we have tried to work on acclimatization with stays in Nuria as well as in Vallter. Additionally, I had been working on aerobic endurance for weeks (with 3 days of running a week) as well as doing some weekly outing to the mountains (Sant Jeroni, Bassegoda among others). Like last year on the ascent to Ararat, I have done my “homework” and this gives me peace of mind.

The KLM plane leaves us on Saturday, April 1 at 6:20 in the morning from Terminal 1 heading to Amsterdam Schiphol airport. I spent the night at El Prat airport together with Jordi Girona, a colleague from Selva del Camp (Reus) with whom we have met in the weeks of preparation for the trekking to Vallter and Nuria; We have developed a very good relationship and we understand each other well. At 4:00 in the morning, Natàlia Santamaría appears, having slept in a campsite near the airport and her partner has brought her to Terminal 1. We have known Natàlia for a longer time, specifically from the ascent to Ararat (Turkey). and I consider it an indispensable asset in any mountain group. Methodical, disciplined, professional, with personality and with a very high dedication and appreciation for everything that surrounds the mountain… we also understand each other very well and together with Oscar Solsona (a lifelong friend who has accompanied me on other expeditions) and Jordi Guasch (whom I also met at Ararat) are part of my “mountain family”. I like to have all of them present on this expedition, it is an extra positive energy that will help to reach the summit.

Things do not start off on the right foot. The plane delayed its departure for 1 hour and instead of arriving at 8:40 we arrived at Schiphol at 9:40. The doors of the Amsterdam – Kilimanjaro plane close at 10:00 and we have to run, we have to run a lot for 1.5 km of madness to arrive at 9:58 at the doors of our KLM plane (important advice: do not fly with KLM). The most important thing is that we will arrive in Tanzania at 10:45 p.m. and despite the fact that I press a lot, the KLM staff tells me that there is nothing to do and that our luggage will not arrive with our flight but will arrive 24 hours later with the flight tomorrow Sunday when we will have already started the trekking. Obviously it is a problem not having part of the luggage, although this possibility was largely “covered” and in the backpack that I carried in the cabin of the plane there is everything necessary to be able to walk (only the mountain boots will be missing, the sleeping bag, sleep, toiletry bag, water bottle, nutritional supplements and t-shirts that are totally dispensable in the initial days of trekking).

We arrived in Tanzania at the scheduled time 22:45. It has been a long flight that has passed me relatively quickly between reading the magazine “Travel” (a bit of travel inspiration is always good) and writing content and chronicles for the Top Summits of the World website that will soon be released. We immediately realize that Africa, and specifically Tanzania, is an opposite world and that processing our Visa in the country as well as claiming for our lost luggage means an important “extra” time. Leaving the airport, the “boss” awaits us, Mr Johnson, who is the contact that our origin agency had provided us and who will take us to the Mosho hotel in a van. We will arrive at the hotel at 1:00 p.m. and logically we will have to wait the next day, Sunday, to meet our colleagues (they will have met at dinner on Saturday).

We have been able to rest very well despite the few hours in bed that we have had. We are the last to arrive at lunch and we know the rest of the group there:

Paco, Rosa and Joan from Barcelona are from the same hiking club and have shared adventures for years.
Marta from Madrid, economist as the promoter of this project
Andrea (the youngest of the group), Leticia and Oscar from Murcia, the latter a couple and great adventurers with experience all over the world.
Quira and Juan (couple), Juan Fran and Víctor, all of them from Gran Canaria and who come under the umbrella of Victor’s travel agency.

The 16 people that make up the group headed to Londorossi Gate (2,100m) and which is the beginning of our “Lemosho Route”, a route of around 65km and 5,500 meters of positive elevation gain that presents a long and calm journey to ascend to the Kilimanjaro and that, as a great advantage, allows a progressive acclimatization. Other routes are the Machame route, the Marangu route, the Northern Circuit, the Rongai route and the Umbwe route. Before starting the route, I tried to minimize the damage due to the incidence of lost luggage and I bought a couple of t-shirts, a hat to protect myself from the sun as well as I have rented a water bottle and a sleeping bag.

After 3 hours of slow driving we arrive at Londorossi Gate (2,100m) and after a quick meal we begin our first day of trekking. I was looking forward to this initial whistle, these first steps… the day in the afternoon will not be long and in approximately 4 hours we will have to overcome a positive difference in altitude of 600 meters as well as cover a distance of only 6 km.

This first stage at the landscape level reminds me a lot of the Reunion Island where I was in September 2022 completing the trekking of the “Diagonal de Fous” with Oscar Solsona and that is that the landscape is pure jungle with abundant vegetation that is strung giant looking for the sky. The presence of amusing primates in beautiful black and white tones draws our attention and makes the ascent to camp 1 of Mti Mkubwa Camp (Big Tree) (2,895 m) very enjoyable. Arriving there we become aware of the dimension of the expedition in which we find ourselves immersed and that is that our support team (cooks, guides, “porters”…) made up of more than 40 people welcomes us with dances and songs that they seem to invoke gods while wishing us good omens on the important journey that awaits us. We are going to sleep soon, but not before knowing what our food routine will be… first hot soup and then meat with vegetables, potatoes and/or rice. The tents are magnificently prepared, they are large and have a good mattress.

On our day 2 of trekking, a long stage of 10 hours, 18 km and 1,000 of positive elevation awaits us that has to take us to Shira 2 Camp (3,810 m) with a previous step through Shira 1 Camp (3,505 m) in which We will eat and recover our strength. The initial kilometers of the stage are similar to those of the previous day with a great abundance of trees and the presence of jungle. However, as we approach Shira 1 Camp (3,505 m), the presence of trees decreases to find a landscape with a majority of bushes and scrub. We are struck by the ability of the “porters” to transport luggage of around 25kg up such high mountain levels and it is that our “African team” are the true heroes of this entire expedition, they mean that we only have to worry about walk, eat and sleep.

Our day 3 of the route will be a stage to maintain altitude and therefore it will go very well to acclimatize. A day awaits us with 7 km of ascent and 4 km of descent as well as 800 meters of ascent by 600 meters of descent and a total time invested of 8 hours. We start from Shira 2 Camp (3,810 m) and head to the maximum elevation of the day at 4,600 meters where we will eat and stay for a while to start connecting the body at high altitudes. The vegetation begins to disappear while we begin to become familiar with the climate of the territory, totally unpredictable and when we reach 4,600 meters, it welcomes us with a good rain. From there to Barranco Camp (3,976 m) the rain persists although it gives us a moment that for me will be one of the best of the trip in which the imposing Kilimanjaro (snowy north face) can be seen for the first time on the left hand side and before our eyes open wide and imposing the valley with the camp in the background and cactus-shaped trees guarding us on both sides of the road.

Arriving at the camp we have a gift for approximately 1 hour and it is none other than the sun that will allow clothes to dry, in my case an asset that I am not exactly left over. After the sun and before dinner we have a “disco” and it is that in a completely improvised way we share dances and “mantras” with our African team, our songs alternate with theirs and we finish the session with “Waka Waka” by Shakira and everyone dancing mixed in which is a very beautiful fusion, moves a very special energy.

Day 4 arrives. The moment of truth begins and this is breathed in the environment. The fantastic team of porters, cooks and guides give us a few minutes of dances, songs and “mantras” which is a way of giving us energy and strength in favor of what awaits us and that is that now, the Uhuru Peak (Kilimanjaro), every time becomes more present. Today’s program from Barranco Camp (3,976 m) to Barafu hut (4,600m) does not present an excessive distance (7 km) but it does have a strong unevenness (900 m ascent and 300 m descent) that together with more technical and exposed sections (without being difficult) will make us invest a total of 7 hours. Along the way and before arriving at Barafu hut (4,600m) I was upset because 3 “porters” send us the backpacks (Jordi’s, Natàlia’s and mine) but they have been “altered” respecting the original state and on a personal level, the feather sleeping bag, the front, the external battery to charge mobile phones as well as a “hat” do not appear in my team. They will not prevent me from ascending Kilimanjaro but it is news that leaves a bad vibration in my body and which I will have to turn around. The Barafu hut (4,600 m) is quite sheltered and protected. We finished dinner at 6:30 p.m. and they tell us that we will wake up at 11:00 p.m. the same day to leave at 12:00 a.m. with the idea of reaching the summit. at 7:00 in the morning coinciding with sunrise.

I haven’t rested well for days. It’s always hard for me to sleep in places other than at home, it’s always hard for me to adjust to noise while I’m sleeping, just as it’s hard for me to adjust to not having a pillow… I’ve been sleeping a lot late that hasn’t become a problem for my elevated physical resistance, one of my best virtues in the mountains. But to the fatigue of the last few days is added an unexpected fact, I am very cold at night as the bag I have rented is not good enough to “resist” the cold temperatures at night (in fact it snows in the camp) . I get very cold, I wake up delirious and without pronouncing sentences that make much sense, at times I wonder if I have caught a fever… there is 1 hour left for the group to leave and so I will not be able to leave. Òscar becomes my angel. Where I have no vision or ability to analyze the situation, he tells me to put on all the clothes I can and at the same time gives me his sleeping bag while he goes to eat something with the rest of the group. During this hour that I have left, I ask the universe and the gods of the mountain to give me energy to reverse a situation that is not good at all… the minutes go by and I am getting warmer at the same time as gaining lucidity. I’m far from 100%, but at least I see light…enough to leave the store at 11:55 p.m….at 12:00 a.m. the group leaves heading for 5,895 meters.

Day 5 of trekking. Today’s program is very demanding. 5 km and 1,200 meters of positive elevation gain to the summit as well as 10 km of descent and 2,800 meters of negative elevation gain to Mweka at 3,100 meters. The forecast is about 8 hours up and about 5 hours down. Almost nothing.

The adrenaline of being at the starting point together with my teammates soon disappears and I come across the reality that it is none other than my body today is not well. The previous days it had worked perfectly but today I’m not doing well at all, neither physically nor mentally… I immediately realize that it will be time, especially today, to row against the current… today it will be time to manage a “pajara”. We are going up and I am not in the front positions as I always like to be on the days of the summit, I miss from the guide more frequent breaks to drink water as well as more duration of them… I force myself to go to the positions in front but the sensations do not improve and at times I think of the worst and that is that I will not be able to keep up with the group and I will have to turn around. But then something happens that changes things… I openly state that I can’t keep up with that pace and that it is possible to go with a specific guide at the end of the main group… Then people start talking, indicating their different problems, I realize that I am not alone, that I am not a stranger to the group and that slowing down is also good for most. Tragi-comic moments take place in which people walk with their eyes closed, staggering, following the feet of the one in front out of sheer inertia, body cold, altitude sickness… I tell them that we look like a “Zombi Walk”, the companions laugh.

It has freed me to admit openly and in a group the fact that I am not well. I am at my best and I stand next to Alfred, the main guide with whom I have had a great relationship at all times and who I feel is my “angel”. He asks me how I am and I answer that I am having a very bad day but that I will reverse it, that today I will summit. We look at each other and smile.

The end of the night and the appearance of daylight acts as an extra dose of energy, we all need it. Daylight coincides with the appearance not too far away from the “Stella Point Kilimanjaro” which at 5,756 meters high acts as a meeting point and confluence of the different routes to the summit. I feel the tears of emotion from a partner (each one has their personal “crusades”) to which, due to the domino effect, I immediately join. I don’t remember ever having cried so much to achieve a milestone and today has been a 7-hour battle against constant adversity…I feel free and liberated crying. Despite the fact that it is not the summit, it seems as if it were… most of my colleagues cry and at the same time laugh with emotion and the hug with Oscar Solsona is special (a friendship with whom I have been able to share many mountain adventures and a great person with whom I hope to be able to share many more) as well as with Jordi Girona (we’ve known each other for 3 weeks, although it really seems like the usual friendship, we have a lot of complicity).

The energy drawn to “Stella Point Kilimanjaro” is treacherous. We still have 1 hour to go to Kilimanjaro. It is only 1 km away, probably less, but our speed is around one kilometer per hour, it seems that we carry weight on our legs… recorded in a “drone” we would seem like a snail race. Altitude sickness appears for the first time, I see a colleague vomiting… I like the moment I am living, the one I am seeing and at the same time feeling, although this does not show that the conditions are harsh.

The Uhuru Peak arrives, finally. It is 8:00 in the morning. Without a doubt, it is my most worked sporting achievement and, therefore, one of those that has generated me the greatest satisfaction to achieve. We take pictures, discuss the move with our colleagues, hug each other… despite the adversities that each one of the group has had to manage since the start, 8 hours ago, 14 of 16 people will have reached the summit and the remaining 2 people you will have reached ”Stella Point Kilimanjaro”. We are all very happy as well as psychologically and physically very tired and the best thing we can do is lose altitude, we will descend 2,800 meters to Mweka at 3,100 meters where altitude sickness will be history and personal and group satisfaction will be omnipresent. I finally rest tonight.

“The headache, the fatigue, the pain… are temporary. The glory is eternal.”

Asante sana Africa. I was there 10 years ago in 2013 and it is impossible to return all that Africa gives you. The smiles of its people, their desire to live and prosper, their energy and quite a lot, their humility… for moments I have the feeling of “home” being in Africa, this place so far from my “physical” roots. We will see each other again soon Africa.

NOTA IMPORTANTE: In Africa we were victims of luggage theft. Apparently, this is not an isolated event and colleagues from other expeditions have encountered incidents of this type when luggage has arrived late at the airport. It is recommended to take out an insurance that includes compensation for loss and/or theft of luggage.