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SUMMITS
SUMMIT Nº 14: NEVADO SAJAMA (BOLIVIA)
BOLIVIA
NEVADO SAJAMA
01/07/2023
ALTITUDE
6.542 m
JORDI GUASCH AND ANDREU LÓPEZ
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
HIGH
CHRONICLE
I have a 12-hour flight to Madrid so it is a good time to start writing this chronicle that will mark the landing of the Top Summits project in Andean territory.
I have known Jordi Guasch for about a year when we met in Turkey to climb Mount Ararat as well as the recent ascent of Kilimanjaro. I consider him a great person, with a reserved and calm disposition, a free and adventurous spirit and personally I consider him a mountaineer with a very good mentality, consistent and very reliable in the mountains in terms of achieving challenges. These are some characteristics that fit into the portrait of the ideal partner to achieve the major challenge that is projected and that is none other than Nevado Sajama. Nevado Sajama is a colossus, a 6,542-meter stratovolcano that is the roof of Bolivia and borders Chilean territory.
We met at 7:00 in the morning on June 23 in T1 of El Prat airport with Jordi. We have an odyssey of flights ahead of us and we prefer to go early. I check in my 18 kg “duffel bag” that was closed with difficulty and I board the plane with a 40-liter backpack and about 8kg… for this high-altitude expedition, a high investment in sports equipment has been necessary in recent months (Sportiva G2 boots , dark circles with a special filter, Gore-Tex pants, technical ice ax, “mitts” and a long etc.) although I feel that I have done my “homework” and I march with everything necessary.
Going back to the itinerary, we first take the Barcelona-Madrid air bridge to then take a 12-hour flight to Lima (Peru). In Lima we have a “small” toll in the form of a 9-hour wait until La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. The scale becomes eternal, we do not rest well, but it is what it is. We arrived in La Paz at 6:00 in the morning, local time, and this time with no problems with our luggage, since mine is one of the first to appear.
At 7:00 a.m. appears part of what will be our team in this adventure. After several telematic meetings and having a very high professional attention I meet in person the “brother” Francisco who is the owner of the Peruvian agency “Franpisco Adventures” that has organized the program to ascend the Nevado Sajama and that has coordinated with suppliers local. He is accompanied from Peru by his right-hand man, Wilder Bravo, who is 50% web and systems programmer and 50% mountain guide and who on this trip will come in a more secondary and even leisure/tourist role that could be assimilated to ours. The third person on the scene is Aurelio, one of the aforementioned local vendors who will lead us across the country on our Bolivian adventures.
We go to the Saranaga hotel, in the center of La Paz, and that will be our base while we are not in the mountains. There we quickly leave our luggage and without wasting too much time, we return to the van that will take us to Lake Titicaca, shared between Peru and Bolivia. Before arriving and in the 3 hours of travel, we can begin to know the country, the people as well as the Bolivian culture.
First of all, we realize that La Paz is a very densely populated city with significant traffic problems that make it difficult to cross it. In the street we observe, worth the redundancy, peace and a very humble and hard-working people, good Bolivian people. On the outskirts of La Paz, we discovered a very dry territory with high mountains in the distance and we began to “empathize” with the animals – local emblems such as the “llama” and “alpaca”.
On Lake Titicaca we take a short tour with a motor boat to then eat local produce in the form of a “tortilla” that is delicious. We walk a bit along the shore of the lake since our legs need it after 30 hours of forced captivity due to displacement, and we return to the capital and to our hotel Sagarnaga, which has sufficiently grateful facilities. We will dedicate the rest of the day to preparing our luggage for our 3-day “stage” of preparation and acclimatization on Nevado Sajama. Francisco goes through the room to do a briefing on what the next few days will be like and what material we have to take.
At 9:30 in the morning our driver Aurelio makes an appearance again and this time we meet the rest of the Bolivian team that is coordinated by Flora. Flora is an Andean entrepreneur, a brave and determined woman whose typical local clothing with brightly colored skirts attracts attention… she is a “cholita”. Flora is the liaison with Francisco and who is in charge of logistics and contacting suppliers such as Aurelio and two new faces of the expedition such as Hernán (at the same time Flora’s brother) and Sebastián. The latter will be our mountain guide in the country and a person with a markedly introverted character and a man of few words, although with the endorsement of almost 20 years of experience. Hernán, an aspiring mountain guide, is also very introverted, the youngest of the group at 26 years old, will be in charge of fueling the machines, he will be our cook. Made now yes, all the presentations we head to the Rinconeta, a region where we will leave the car after 3 hours of travel and eat a little.
With a full stomach, we leave early in the afternoon towards the Chiarkota lagoon (4,670 m) which will be the place where we will establish our base camp and we will arrive after an hour of walking. Arriving at Chiarkota, I begin to notice some discomfort on my forehead, which would be the beginning of my acclimatization problems on this trip. Hernán prepares us a delicious soup and we go to sleep and as usual when I don’t sleep in comfortable conditions, I spend the night awake, completely blank.
I get up from the mattress (yes, we are privileged and we have a small space with a ceiling at 4,670 meters) with enthusiasm and a great desire to start “sowing” to reach the summit. The objective of the day is the Pico Austria (5,300 meters) that will not involve absolutely any technical complexity and due to its location, it would not present snow along the route. I responded to the first day’s test very well at the level of the legs and quite well at the level of the lungs, although I feel a slight discomfort that at that moment I don’t know what it is.
The afternoon in the Chiarkota camp was spent resting, talking with my own companions and other expeditions, as well as going for a walk. I once again enjoy Hernán’s magnificent soups and we go to sleep early because for the next day we have a “traca” program with the ascent to 3 peaks and with snow throughout its entire route in which it will be an opportunity to try the new Sportiva G2 boot.
The night is an ordeal and the headaches would intensify…I can’t sleep either, which is a problem that I have to solve immediately in the future since these routes require you to be at 100×100. 1:00 pm arrives and I tell my partner Jordi Guasch that I will not go out… the headache has consumed me and I have no energy…
The companions will invest about 11 hours in completing the demanding excursion, they are very happy as well as tired. I have gone through a real ordeal in which the most I have managed to do is wander like a “zombie” in front of the shelter. I close the 3-day stage very discouraged and worried since I only have 2 transition days (Wednesday the 28th to visit La Paz and Thursday the 29th to travel to the town of Sajama) to reverse this situation.
The day of the “guiri” in La Paz makes me feel good and I disconnect from the mountains and enjoy discovering a new culture and society that is very different from the one I live in. We take the red cable car (in La Paz public transport is not buried but air) and we discover a huge city that is eating up the mountain. La Paz is a city without much history, that is to say, it does not present any tourist attractions other than letting yourself get lost in its streets and discovering a lively, active, humble, kind society… that fights for a prosperous future.
The afternoon also serves to continue changing the energy. Mine revolves around friends who send me multiple messages of encouragement, as well as some calls with my partner and my father to explain my concerns, but also to simply talk about day to day (I am a person who likes it is good to communicate). The other medicine of the day will be a surprise and a massage that I have scheduled at the hotel that will be a source of light and health for me… the physiotherapist Erika exceeds the expectations of a massage and complements it by teaching me several breathing exercises to have altitude sickness borders. The good news of the day does not end here and my sports doctor in Girona gives me advice on how to take a medication that I had prudently chosen not to take.
I end the day having dinner alone in a Bolivian cuisine restaurant and by solo I mean that not only is Jordi absent, but there are no diners. I really enjoy the place with paintings on the walls, I really enjoy the spicy “llama” dish and I really enjoy myself. I find myself with some messages with childhood friends that just propelled me… tears escape from my eyes, but for the first time since the headache I feel that the summit may be possible. I go to sleep happy and with a changed energy… I’m ready to go to Sajama.
The second phase of this journey arrives, the decisive and most important one. I have rested very well, I don’t have a headache and I get into the van keeping in mind the phrase that Letícia, Murcia’s partner in the ascent of Kilimanjaro, told me, “the important thing is not how you start but how you finish…” . I have gotten up early, I have stretched, I have done breathing exercises, I have taken my medication, I have drank water, I have chewed coca leaves… I feel that in relation to altitude sickness I have done my homework.
A 6-hour trip awaits us to the town of Sajama since today is Thursday (along with Sundays, there is a fair/market in La Paz) and it will be difficult for us to move at a good pace with our van. The first 2 hours that coincide with the tortuous exit from La Paz I do not pay attention to the outside since it is well known and I dedicate them to reading. As we move away from the capital I begin to focus on the outside landscape, the mountains… some 6 thousand begin to be seen in the distance and after a few hours of driving, the “creature” finally appears in the distance. It has no mountains around it, it is isolated and has a fairly triangular shape with snow at the highest levels…it is impressive and I can’t stop following it with my eyes until we arrive in the town of Sajama. In the town of Sajama, upon entering, we have to register at the Park, which costs us about 14 euros. The town is very small but we like it a lot, it will be a good base of operations.
I am worried that I have not been able to test my new boot, the Sportiva G2. The ideal day to try them was in the acclimatization phase but my health and altitude sickness did not let me, so although the guides advise us not to be active throughout the day, on a personal level I need to be active as well as do it with my new boots. In the distance he saw an elevation that presents views of Nevado Sajama, the mountain screams at me and that is where I head. Jordi Guasch accompanies me for approximately 1 km over flat terrain and says goodbye to me when we reach the small mountain that has an elevation of 200 meters. I start to climb, it’s my moment, I feel good and good with the boots, good legs, good lungs, good headache, good motivation, good sensations…in general with very good energy. I get to the top of the elevation, I look at the perfectly defined horizon of Nevado Sajama, I look at it, I kneel, I put my hand on my chest, I close my eyes and I ask for permission to go up tomorrow and that everything goes well. I’m ready. You just have to wait for tomorrow.
I have rested very well. I got up early and completed my breathing routines, stretching, drinking water…a local driver arrives, we load our luggage into his vehicle and through a very tortuous road we arrive at the beginning of the route, which is at a height of 4,700 meters approximately. Before starting and taking the first steps, I need a little ritual to do and I bury 6 coca leaves under the ground and ask for permission on the mountain to climb. This is how Flora had told me what I had to do if I wanted to climb the 6,542-meter mountain.
Today’s route involves a distance of about 5 km and about 1,000 meters of positive slope that has to lead us in an estimated time of 5 hours to the high altitude camp that is located at 5,700 meters above sea level. We start walking around 10 am, which is a fairly flat start to the route and with a very good path… I take advantage of its low demand to drink plenty of liquids, as well as chew coca leaves. After a couple of hours of fairly smooth travel in which the Nevado Sajama is on our right, we finally reach the section where we begin to gain height on a part of broken terrain. In general I like to be in front, so I put myself “at the wheel” of our local guide, Sebastián, and try to keep up with his rhythm. Here the terrain still does not have snow, so progress is made without difficulties, despite the fact that the height is logically beginning to make itself felt.
We arrived at the high altitude camp ahead of schedule, I felt super good in my legs, lungs and what is very important to me, without a headache. Arriving at the top of the camp, we don’t have to do practically anything since the porters have just brought our luggage up, they set up the tent for us, they prepare infusions for us… all we have to do is, taking advantage of the good temperature that derives from the sunlight, leave the backpack and clothes ready for the next day as well as condition the tent and sleeping bag.
We ate dinner at the most advanced time we had ever had, 5:00 p.m., because when the sun goes down it will be very cold, so we have to take advantage of the resource. We entered the store at 6:00 p.m., I am perfectly aware that I will not sleep but I am content to remain calm inside the bag and not get cold until 00:00 in the morning, D hour. I get it.
At 00:00 in the morning we woke up since at 01:00 they will leave for the roof of the country. I present some problem when it comes to dressing with the new material and I ask Sebastian for help, who is capable of surviving the infernal cold without gloves. When it was time to get dressed, my fingers and toes got a little cold. I intelligently enter the store, do hand and foot mobility exercises… I want to be outside without moving for the least amount of time. When I hear that lunch is ready I go…it’s nothing spectacular for the effort that awaits us: a piece of bread and an infusion.
We leave as fast as we can since remaining static plays against us. A little 5 minutes after starting to walk, something is not going well in the group… Jordi Guasch stops, I see that Francisco is looking at him from getting hot in his hands… Jordi tries to walk again but stops soon again. He doesn’t feel good and has cold hands and toes, general malaise, headache… a new situation for him who had never failed in the attempt to crown any mountain. Too bad, I approached to be interested in him but he doesn’t want to… he says to continue.
We only continue on the expedition Francisco, his Peruvian partner Wilder and our local guide Sebastián. The first 45 minutes present absolutely no difficulty and take place along a path similar to the day before and still without snow. However, above 5,850 meters the snow makes an appearance and abundantly since a “gutter” appears before us with a pending force that will imply that I have to rope myself with Sebastián as well as put the crampons on the boots and use the ice ax .
The “gutter” with its pending strength begins to demand and “take” energy from me. It is clear that a 6,542 meter such as Nevado Sajama could not go “for free”. After passing the “canaleta” we are at about 5,950 meters and we reach a section of advancing laterally through the rock, drilling and climbing. My climbing technique is nil so I consume a lot of energy in this part of the ascent… I need the help of the guides to advance safely.
Having passed the stretch of drilling in rock, we continue at 5,950 meters since we have practically not gained any elevation and one of the “moments” of the expedition arrives with the appearance of “penitentes”. The “penitentes” are formed as a consequence of the rains and due to the extreme cold at night, they become blocks of ice. They take shape at high altitudes in cold and dry environments and their white and pointed appearance is reminiscent of Catholic believers who cover their faces with this conical garment during religious rituals.
This year we are in luck and the aforementioned “penitents” will have a height of 30 cm – 40 cm, although on occasions they can exceed the waist and represent a significant obstacle to progress. My guide Sebastian is a “machine”, a beast that “with blows of an ice ax” clears the path for us as if it were a snowplow. This allows us to reach an elevation of 6,100 meters more or less well, although the fatigue, the altitude and the cold are eating away at our energy.
The “penitents” have been left behind and before us appears an infinite glacier with slopes of more than 50%. It is huge, shocking and at the same time impressive to think that my legs have to save this geographical feature. I remember the teachings of Africa and the mountain guides there who told me “pole pole Andreu”, that is, slow down and focus on each step and the summit will come. So I do the same…step by step, here and now.
My strength begins to fail me, I don’t move fast, I have to stop very frequently and I fall to the ground due to the little force of my footstep. The Peruvian companions and guides I perceive that they feel that I will not reach the summit and they choose to climb the two of them with their rope, advance us and leave me with the local guide, Sebastián. I didn’t expect this little patience, but I respect it and focus on my only teammate, Sebastián. I ask him if there is a problem with him climbing the way and at the pace that I am doing, with multiple, albeit brief, stops…he looks at me, smiles at me and tells me that there is no problem. I see that he trusts me and my chances…
There is no way to gain height on this ice wall. Every time I ask him about the level we are at, I get discouraged thinking about everything that is missing. The energy is low, the legs tread almost without enough, I move forward with my eyes practically closed and the main stimuli come from the arms in which with one tense and tense from the rope that links me to Sebastián and with the other arm, I have the ice ax of crossing that I use as if it were a cane. These are the worst moments, I have to resist. Stay consistent, stay active within the weakness… I have to hold out until the first signs of abandonment of the night appear as well as the appearance of the first light of day.
The long-awaited moment arrives and the sky changes its color from black to a beautiful pinkish tone. At that moment a very powerful “GO” comes out of my interior that transforms many things. My guide also repeats the cry. At that precise moment, I, he, the mountain and the whole world know that I will achieve it: I will reach the summit.
There is still a battle to iron out… about 150 meters of positive slope, although the summit can be seen on the horizon. We find ourselves, already going down, Wilder and Francisco, who are very surprised to see me “alive” and at such high levels. I don’t stop too much, we have to keep taking advantage of the “momentum”… this renewed energy that the arrival of the day and the farewell of the night have given me.
Although the last part of the ascent, prior to the summit, presents less inclination, it is quite difficult for me to advance… could it be the height? Is it the nerves of having the target so close?… Finally the 6,542 meters arrive. It seemed impossible. The Nevado Sajama at my feet. The Bolivian roof has put me to the limit and I have had to put absolutely everything into the climb to reach the goal: physical, heart, mind and spirit… all merged into one, to achieve a dream that I had been knitting and preparing for months. I am very pleased and happy. I hug Sebastián who has been my angel, my guide…he has taken very good care of me and has led me to perfection.
This summit has been the summit of the people. The summit of my family, of my friends, of my partner, of the medical professionals and physiotherapists who have advised and prepared me so well, of the acquaintances… who with their advice and energy have given me that extra energy I needed to achieve a big goal. Thank you all so much for being.
“The important thing is not how it starts but how it ends.”
GALLERY
